The Medieval Broadcloth –
Changing Trends in Fashions, Manufacturing and Consumption

I 2006 afholdte Danmarks Grundforskningsfonds Center
for Tekstilforskning i forbindelse med Dansk Historikermøde en konference om
middelalderligt klæde. Foredragene er nu publiserede.

The book is published by: The Danish National Research
Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen. Ancient
Textiles Series 6, ed. Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen and Marie-Louise B. Nosch.

Contents
Introduction by Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen and Marie-Louise B. Nosch

1. Three Centuries of Luxury Textile Consumption in the Low Countries
and England, 1330–1570: Trends and Comparisons of Real Values
of Woollen Broadcloths (Then and Now) by John Munro.
2. Some Aspects of Medieval Cloth Trade in the Baltic Sea Area by
Carsten Jahnke.
3. A Finnish Archaeological Perspective on Medieval Broadcloth by
Heini Kirjavainen.
4. Searching for Broadcloth in Tartu (14th–15th century) by Riina
Rammo.
5. The Influence of Hanseatic Trade on Textile Production in Medieval
Poland by Jerzy Maik.
6. Mengiað klæthe and tweskifte klædher. Marbled, Patterned and Parti-coloured
Clothing in Medieval Scandinavia by Camilla Luise Dahl.
7. Archaeological Evidence of Multi-coloured Cloth and Clothing by
Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen.
8. Reconstructing 15th century Laken by Anton Reurink and Kathrine
Vestergård Pedersen.

LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS

John H. Munro is Professor Emeritus of Economics, University of Toronto. John
Munro received his M.A. and Ph.D. in History from Yale University and was
nominated full professor in 1973 at the University of Toronto, Department of
Economics. His principal research interests concern later medieval and early
modern England and the Low Countries, with a focus on the history of the
textile industries, and also on monetary, financial, and labour history. His major recent publications are: Textiles of the Low
Countries in European Economic History, Studies in Social and Economic History,
Vol. 19 (1990); Bullion Flows and Monetary Policies in England and the Low
Countries, 1350–1500 (1992); Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic
History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries
(1994). He served as the Medieval Area editor for the The Oxford Encyclopedia
of Economic History. He is elected as a lifetime Foreign Member of the Royal
Flemish Academy of Belgium for Science and the Arts.

Carsten Jahnke is a historian and associate professor at the Saxo Institute,
University of Copenhagen. He was trained in Kiel, Germany and is a specialist
in medieval economical and social history. His research includes the history of
the Hanseatic League, the Estonian trade up to the 16th century and the
political, economical and social history of Denmark in the Middle Ages. He is
the author of the article on The Baltic Trade, in the Handbook of Hanseatic
History, ed. Don Harrald, a monograph about the Hanseatic herring trade and the
trade between Tallinn/Reval and Amsterdam in the 15th and 16th century. In the
present volume he presents evidence on the cloth trade in the Baltic.

Heini Kirjavainen is a doctoral student in the Department of Archaeology, University
of Turku in Finland. She is specialized in medieval textile research and
archaeological fibre identification. Her research concentrates mainly on urban
textile finds and their manufacturing sphere in the medieval town of Turku in
south western Finland. In this present volume she discusses medieval broadcloth
imports to Finland.

Riina Rammo is an archaeologist, and currently Ph.D. student at the University
of Tartu, Finland, and also works there at the Institute of History and
Archaeology, University of Tartu. She is specialized in archaeological
textiles, especially findings from the Middle Ages. Her research also includes
studies in history of prehistoric and medieval costume in Estonia. In the
present volume she has gathered evidence on broadcloth among medieval
archaeological findings from Tartu, a medieval Hanseatic town in Livonia.

Jerzy Maik is Associate Professor at the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology
of the Polish Academy of Sciences. He received his Ph.D. degree and
Habilitation at the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology, Polish Academy of
Sciences. His main focus is the history of textiles in Poland, particularly in
the Roman period and the Middle Ages; his research also includes medieval
cities and castles and their inhabitants. Maik is the editor of the scientific
journal Fasciculi Archaeologiae Historica, Lódz. He is a member of the
organization committee of the North European Symposium for Archaeological
Textiles, and organizer of the 8th North European Symposium for Archaeological
Textiles, 2002 in Lódz, and editor of the volume Priceless invention of
humanity – Textiles. Report from the 8th North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles”, 8–10 May 2002 in Lódz, Poland,
“Acta Archaeologica Lodziensia”, No 50/1, Lódz 2004.

Camilla Luise Dahl holds a Masters in history from the Saxo Institute,
University of Copenhagen. Her main research areas are clothing references in
medieval Scandinavian documents and terminology and typology of dress. She is
the editor of Dragtjournalen, a journal dedicated to the study of costume
published by a consortium of Danish museums; she has published numerous
articles on history and terminology of dress from medieval through early modern
times.

Anton Reurink is trained as a Master technician of fine mechanics and has
worked for the University of Utrecht in Holland. He has conducted several
experiments regarding ancient textile technology, and organises workshops about
medieval textile production. He has also created exhibitions in several museums.
He is currently conducting a large collaborative study of Broadcloth from the
15th century as made in the city of Leiden, Holland, and employs both
historical sources and experimental archaeology.

Kathrine Vestergård Pedersen has an M.A. from the Department of Medieval
Archaeology at the University of Aarhus. She is attached to the Danish National
Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen.
Her research centres on textiles and clothing from the Viking Age and the Medieval
period, with a special emphasis on combining theoretical analysis with
practical knowledge garnered from handicraft processes.

Marie-Louise B. Nosch is the director of the Danish National Research
Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, located at the Saxo Institute,
University of Copenhagen. She is trained in history, archaeology and philology,
and holds her Ph.D. degree from the University of Salzburg. She was co-organiser of the international seminar on broadcloth, and
is the editor of the Ancient Textiles Series.